Opus 1

Opus One is the Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild collaboration, and it does one thing: produces a single wine each vintage that expresses the partnership between French and American winemaking traditions.

That singularity is the point. There is no range to work through, so the tasting is about vintage variation and the balance between power and finesse that the estate aims for. The building itself rises out of the Oakville vineyards and is a deliberate architectural statement. Three tasting experiences are offered. Michael scores ambiance and wine at 9 apiece, among the highest in this collection, though the staff score of 6 suggests the welcome can feel formal. Appointments required, and worth booking well ahead for a Napa Cabernet day.